Into the Wild

The Calumet Region

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by Ron Trigg

The Calumet region I remember from my 1950s boyhood featured belching industrial smokestacks, rich ethnic diversity, and a social scene centered around church, school, and the ubiquitous corner tavern. Elements of all those things still remain, but there is also a new commitment to preserving and restoring the area’s past natural splendor. Many of yesterday’s industrial wastelands have been transformed into some pretty spectacular nature preserves. This unique blend of cultural nostalgia and innovative conservation is well worth a visit.

Start your tour at South Holland’s Sand Ridge Nature Center. This impressive facility anchors a Forest Preserve District of Cook County property situated on a beach ridge left by receding lake waters more than 4,700 years ago. After a stop at the nature center, where you’ll learn about the area’s geology and history and meet a few resident animals, head out to explore the nearly four miles of hiking trails that wind through a variety of natural communities. Oak woodlands harbor a fine display of wildflowers in April and May — bloodroot, columbine, white trillium, geranium, blue phlox. Boardwalks and overlooks provide glimpses of wetlands. Prairie patches are at their colorful best in late summer with blazing stars, sunflowers, asters, goldenrods, and a host of butterflies feeding on their nectar.

A little to the north, in the village of Burnham, is Powderhorn Lake, another Forest Preserve property. A manmade lake, which is a popular fishing spot, dominates the site, but beyond the parking lot lies a 130-acre state nature preserve featuring high-quality marsh and sand prairie habitat with nearly 300 native species of plants. Prickly pear cactus bloom on the ridges in June amid tall grasses and a mosaic of prairie wildflowers. An osprey has recently been nesting on a platform near the water’s edge, and a variety of waterfowl and wading birds are attracted to the lake and the marshy environs.

Across the state line in Hammond is Gibson Woods County Park. This nature preserve is a high-quality example of globally rare dune-and-swale topography. Several rare plant species bloom here, and wild lupine, puccoon, golden Alexanders, and Indian paintbrush are among the botanic stars of spring and early summer. A profusion of Turk’s cap lilies and milkweeds emerge in midsummer, and fall brings delicate fringed gentians. This is a terrific place for birding during the spring migration — a good opportunity to add to your warbler life list. Rare pale corydalis bloomed on a recently burned ridge last year, and hooded mergansers and other waterfowl are being attracted to newly restored swales.

Miller Woods in Gary is the westernmost unit of Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore. A rolling savanna landscape conceals several large interdunal ponds. Beavers have constructed a huge lodge and are frequently seen cruising the waters. White water lilies and spatterdock float on the surface, and golden ragwort, blue flag iris, and Canada anemone grace the shoreline. Six-lined racerunner lizards dart across the sandy trails and red squirrels scold passersby from high oak perches. Early fall brings fringed and bottle gentians and ladies’ tresses orchids, which bloom in the shadow of great blue lobelia, tall bellflower, and lion’s foot.

Roaming

The region abounds with good birding spots, especially during migration periods. Hammond Lakefront Park & Bird Sanctuary, (219) 853-6378, is accessible through the Horseshoe Casino parking lot. Wolf Lake straddles the state line. Try William W. Powers Conservation Area on the Illinois shore, (773) 646-3270, or Hammond’s Wolf Lake and Forsythe Parks, (219) 853-6378.

Hiking opportunities are abundant at Indiana Dunes State Park, (219) 926-1952. The trails at the Cowles Bog, West Beach, and Inland Marsh units of Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore, (219) 926-7561, present a variety of habitats. Try some less-visited sites, like Seidner Dune & Swale in Hammond, (219) 879-4725; Ivanhoe Preserve in Gary, (219) 981-9183; or the Chicago Department of Environment’s Hegewisch Marsh restoration site, (312) 744-9136.

Participate in volunteer workdays at local restoration sites. Contact Shirley Heinze Land Trust, (219) 879-4725; Lake County Parks Department, (219) 945-0543; or Friends of the Forest Preserves, (312) 356-9990.

Daytripping

Cool off with a dip in the lake at any of the beaches in the Dunes. Eight public beaches are available at Indiana Dunes State Park and National Lakeshore.

Those seeking some culture can explore the company towns established by local industry for their workers in the early 20th century. The Pullman State Historic Site at 11111 S. Forestville Avenue, Chicago, is the best known, but the Marktown Historic District in East Chicago and the streets of downtown Whiting also deserve a visit. The John Dillinger Museum at the Indiana Welcome Center, 7770 Corrine Drive, Hammond, (219) 989-7979, illustrates the life and times of 1930s-era gangsters and celebrates the police officers who battled them.

For some minor league baseball action, the Gary South Shore Railcats, (219) 882-2255, provide great family fun at Gary’s new downtown stadium, the Steelyard.

Or get out your dancing shoes and head to the Club 505, 13505 S. Brainard Avenue in Hegewisch, (773) 646-9819, one of the last surviving polka clubs in Chicago. A live band and dancing are scheduled most Sunday evenings, but call ahead to make sure.

Foraging

Taste of Italy, 550 River Oaks Drive, Calumet City, (708) 868-4440, is a small family-run business serving home-style Italian favorites. El Taco Real, 935 Hoffman Street, Hammond, (219) 932-8333, is popular with locals for its authentic Mexican fare. Up for Grabs, 1923 Calumet Avenue, Whiting, (219) 659-4508, is a neighborhood bar known for its lake perch dinners and great burgers. And check out Miller Bakery Café, 555 Lake Street, Gary, (219) 938-2229, which offers a white-tablecloth experience in a cozy setting.

Bedding Down

Camping is available at Indiana Dunes State Park, (866) 622-6746, with 140 full-electric sites, and at the National Lakeshore, (219) 926-7561, with both drive-in and walk-in sites. Avoid crowds by going off-season. Other good lodging: the Gray Goose Inn in Chesterton, (800) 521-5127, and Spring House Inn in Porter, (866) 386-3700.

Events

Gary’s South Shore Air Show, July 10 at Gary Chicago International Airport; July 11–12 at Marquette Park, Gary, (800) 255-5253.

Festival of the Lakes, July 15–19, Wolf Lake Park, Hammond, (219) 853-6378.

Pierogi Fest, July 24–26, Whiting, (888) 659-0292.